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墨西哥诱人的旅游胜地:圣米格尔-德阿连德

Alexandra Kirkman 2019年11月04日

这片丰富多彩的殖民飞地,以它无可抗拒的艺术景观、独一无二的建筑和无法模仿的氛围,吸引了越来越多的观光者。

圣米格尔-德阿连德(又名贾丁-阿连德)主广场。图片来源:The San Miguel de Allende Tourism Board
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圣米格尔-德阿连德,曾是早年墨西哥独立战争的关键地区,也曾是墨西哥繁荣的白银贸易的中心。它坐落在海拔6000英尺的瓜纳华托州中央高地,长久以来被誉为墨西哥王国的明珠,数十年来以其厚重的历史、迷人的巴洛克/新古典主义殖民建筑和宜人的气候,吸引着一批又一批的移民。如今,不断涌现的出类拔萃的餐馆和高档酒店,在活跃的艺术风味和厚重的文化气息的映衬下,越发富有魅力,吸引了新一代的参观者们。

此处以方济各会僧侣胡安·德·圣米格尔而得名,他是印第安人的捐赠者,而这座城市——自2008年始成为联合国教科文组织指定的世界遗产城市——是1542年西班牙人发现瓜纳华托后的第一个落脚点。墨西哥从西班牙?#25345;?#19979;独立的五年后,即1826年,城市名字中增加了“阿连德”几个字,为了纪念本土人民的儿?#21360;?#21069;?#22987;?#20891;队长官、后来成为革命中的英雄人物的伊那西奥·阿连德。1764年在阿连德的故居建起了一座高贵的砖石建筑,现在它成了一个靠近森繁叶茂的主广场埃尔·贾丁的博物馆。

A pivotal player in the early days of the Mexican War for Independence and one-time epicenter of the country’s brisk silver trade, San Miguel de Allende, perched 6,000 feet above sea level in the central highlands state of Guanajuato, has long enjoyed a reputation as one of Mexico’s crown jewels, luring streams of expats for decades with its storied history, enchanting Baroque/Neoclassical colonial architecture, and enviable climate. Now, a burgeoning array of exceptional eateries and top-tier hotels, coupled with its vibrant arts community and richly textured culture, are amplifying its ineffable allure for new generations of visitors.

Named for Franciscan monk Juan de San Miguel, a benefactor of the Indians, the city—a UNESCO World Heritage City since 2008—was the first Spanish settlement in Guanajuato upon its founding in 1542. “Allende” was added in 1826, five years after Mexico’s liberation from Spanish rule, to honor Ignacio Allende, a native son and former royal army officer who became a hero of the revolution. Allende’s birthplace, an elegant brick-and-limestone dwelling built in 1764, is now a house museum near El Jardín, the leafy main square.

库纳德第拉的酒庄和葡萄园。图片来源:Paco Lara
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圣米格尔那些没有主人的殖民地宝藏仍然完好无损,这在一定程度上要归功于其动荡的历史:作为西班牙?#25345;?#19979;的墨西哥人口最多的城市之一,在20世?#32479;?#30001;于种种不幸几乎要成为一个幽灵镇,银矿石枯竭了,流感大爆发。如今,圣米格尔出了名的步行街——那些低矮的建筑历经岁月变成赭色、芥末色和朱红色——数不胜数的画廊和别致的精品店,其靓丽的店面和时尚的商品可以让你愉快地徘?#24425;?#20010;小时,这座城市戏剧性地融合了过去与现在。

很自然的,正是艺术家们在一个世纪以前拯救了圣米格尔。威严的建筑和精美的光亮迷住了他们,于是他们聚居起来,创建艺术和文化机构,比如埃斯库埃拉艺术大学和阿连德研?#20811;?#20004;者都是由芝加哥人斯特林·迪金森与人联合创立的。从普林斯顿大学毕业后,他于1937年偶然到了这个城市,立即被它给迷住了,他骑着小驴走街串巷的样子也成为了当地人熟悉的一道风景。在第二次世界大战期间,他作了一些情报工作,此后他返回圣米格尔开始?#24515;?#24180;轻的美国退伍军人,依照《退伍军人权利法案》到埃斯库埃拉艺术大学学?#22467;?#26031;特林在这座城市的复兴中一直扮演着至关重要的角色,直到1998年去世。今天,圣米格尔·德阿连德能成为一个国际艺术中心和爱冒险的美国人追捧的目的地,很大程度上要归功于他。

San Miguel’s trove of colonial treasures have remained remarkably intact thanks in part to its tumultuous history: one of Mexico’s most populous cities under Spanish rule, it teetered on the brink of ghost-town status in the early 20th century due to a string of misfortunes, including the depletion of its silver ore and an influenza epidemic. These days, San Miguel’s eminently strollable streets—most chockablock with low-slung buildings awash in shades of ochre, mustard, and vermilion—will keep you happily meandering for hours, as will its countless galleries and chic boutiques, whose sleek storefronts and soignée wares underscore the city’s dramatic juxtaposition of past and present.

Fittingly, it was artists who first resuscitated San Miguel starting about a century ago. Beguiled by its architectural majesty and exquisite light, they took up residence in droves, establishing art and cultural institutes including the Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes and the Instituto Allende, both cofounded by Chicagoan Stirling Dickinson. Having happened upon the flagging city in 1937 after graduating from Princeton, he was instantly enchanted, promptly becoming a familiar sight around town atop his burro. After serving in intelligence posts during World War II, he returned to San Miguel and began recruiting young American veterans to study at Bellas Artes on the G.I. Bill, continuing to play a vital role in the city’s renaissance until his death in 1998. Today, he’s largely credited with turning San Miguel de Allende into both an international arts center and a sought-after destination for adventurous Americans.

水上城市度假村自称是该市唯一?#30333;?#37325;感官体验”的地方。图片来源:Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende
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?#26723;?#19968;看

用狄金森自己的话说,他第一眼见到拉帕罗基亚-德圣米格尔-阿坎格尔就想留在这座城市,这是一座粉红色的新哥特式教堂,以其高耸的尖顶而闻名于世。如今这座标志性的教堂,依然是这个城市最令人肃然起敬的地标。16世纪教堂建成后,曾经年久失修,它的脱胎换骨始于1880年,当地的一位石匠和建筑师唐·泽弗里诺·古铁雷斯负责对它进行了改造。古铁雷斯从欧洲教堂的照片中汲取灵感;而由于他的工匠是文盲,他就用树枝在红土上勾勒出他的设计方案,将他脑海中的设想在未来的十年中变为了现实。

What to see

By his own account, it was Dickinson’s first glimpse of La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel—the pink, neo-Gothic parish church renowned for its soaring spires—that compelled him to stay, and today the iconic cathedral remains the city’s most awe-inspiring landmark. Having fallen into sundry states of disrepair following its initial 16th-century construction, its metamorphosis began in 1880, when Don Zefferino Gutiérrez, a local master stonemason and architect, was charged with giving it a serious facelift. Gutiérrez drew on images of European cathedrals for artistic inspiration; because his craftsmen were illiterate, he sketched his designs in the red-clay soil with a stick, bringing his vision to life over the ensuing decade.

拉艾斯奎那博物馆,是一家独特的文化机构,致力于保存酿酒工艺和手工墨西哥玩具。图片来源:Museo La Esquina
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毫不奇怪,这个城市有着一些独特的博物馆,比如圣米格尔面具博物馆,其所有者和策展人比尔·勒瓦瑟花了将近25年时间,收集了超过500种墨西哥的仪式面具。勒瓦瑟是缅因州人,曾任广告主管,富有魅力的他与墨西哥土著社区相遇的故事,本身就像面具一样令人着迷。

?#29992;?#20855;博物馆出发,走5?#31181;?#23601;到了拉艾斯奎那博物馆,那里聚集了拉美最多的玩具,超过3000种,从精心绣制的玩偶和彩虹色的皮那塔,到复杂的耶稣诞生像群和微型摩天轮,?#32654;?#32463;沧桑的观光者也顿?#34987;?#21040;童年。

Not surprisingly, the city boasts some unique museums, like the Mask Museum of San Miguel, whose owner and curator, Bill LeVasseur, has spent nearly 25 years acquiring a collection of over 500 Mexican ceremonial masks. A Maine native and former advertising executive, the charismatic LeVasseur’s tales of his encounters with Mexico’s indigenous communities are as fascinating as the masks themselves.

From there, it’s a five-minute walk to the Museo La Esquina, which showcases one of Latin America’s largest collections of toys. Encompassing 3,000-plus playthings ranging from elaborately embroidered dolls and rainbow-hued pi?atas to intricate Nativity sets and miniature ferris wheels, it will make the most world-weary visitor feel like a kid again.

拉艾斯奎那博物馆展出的手工玩偶。图片来源:Museo La Esquina
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这座城市流行的美学氛围,在?#20387;?#25289;制造厂就显得生机勃勃,这里曾是一个纺织工厂摆放过巨型机器,现在却是陈列着各种室内设计、古董、珠宝和陶瓷的画廊和精品店。挑剔的购物者在这精美的地域一待就是几个小时,这里的室内和室外空间几乎是无缝地融合在了一起。

?#26723;?#19968;吃

如果你徘徊累了腹中空空,那你又有福了:最近10年里,圣米格尔发展成了一个美食艺术的中心。从勒贾丁步行不远,The Restaurant是享用休闲午餐的好去处,美国厨师唐尼·马斯特顿会为你烹饪风味食品,比如带香辣木?#28982;?#27915;葱味的鸭?#38047;?#31859;饼,你可以嚼着饼沐浴在阳光斑纹的18世纪摩洛哥式庭院里。

The city’s prevailing penchant for aesthetics comes to life in an especially shoppable way at Fabrica La Aurora, a former textile factory, where halls once home to giant looms are lined with galleries and boutiques specializing in interior design, antiques, jewelry, and ceramics. Discerning shoppers can easily spend a few hours wandering its judiciously designed floor plan, which seamlessly blends indoor and outdoor space to winning effect.

What to eat

If all this perusing has you feeling famished, you’re in luck: the last decade has seen San Miguel also blossom as a center of gastronomic artistry. A short stroll from Le Jardín, The Restaurant is a primo spot for a leisurely lunch, where American chef Donnie Masterton prepares flavorful plates like duck confit tacos with spicy hibiscus blossom-onion relish served in a sun-streaked, 18th century Moroccan courtyard.

龙宫龙舌兰酒。图片来源:Fabrica La Aurora
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牛肉小酒馆坐落在?#25300;?#30340;?#26723;?#26684;邮政设计区,这是一个装饰艺术风格的热点区,澳大利亚厨师保罗·本特利在此为你准备经典美食牛排。在享用牛排或用肉豆蔻蜂蜜蘸乳猪前,先尝尝用黄油和香草烤的牡蛎以及用?#26131;?#21644;奶酪制成的番茄沙拉。

如果想在晚餐时享受热闹的气氛,请?#24052;?#25289;乌尼卡,并在楼上的露天餐厅用餐,一边品味着塞拉诺火?#26085;?#20024;?#21360;?#28909;辣的酸橘汁腌鱼和顶级玛格丽塔酒,一边在勒贾丁的树梢下将拉帕罗奎亚的景色一览无余。

?#26723;?#19968;喝

谈到喝,龙舌兰酒鉴赏?#19968;?#38047;情于龙宫龙舌兰,这是墨西哥最受?#38431;?#30340;小批量龙舌兰酒,该酒由博萨·冈萨雷斯·尼维斯在2008年首推——他?#24425;?#31532;一位龙舌兰酒酿制大师,与他合作的有MTV的联合创始人鲍勃·皮特曼。这座如今的私人住所在17世纪曾经是龙宫的马棚,龙宫是西班牙女王最精锐的骑兵,由伊那西奥·阿连德率领,而他后来成了墨西哥独立运动的领袖。

接下来,要轮到Doce 18概念屋那个?#22885;?#40657;曜石的品酒室,来品尝它的?#20449;?#26410;熟化酒——一种由长柄水晶玻璃?#30333;?#30340;百分百蓝色龙舌兰银和超熟龙舌兰酒的混合物。此后,你还可以去圣米格尔的各间明星屋顶酒?#26705;?#27604;如去市里唯一的一家屋顶寿?#26223;蒕uince去品尝屡获殊荣的鸡尾酒,或者去观看圣米格尔日落的最佳场所Luna Rooftop Tapas酒吧。

Bovine Brasserie, housed in the edgy Codigo Postal Design Collective, is an art deco-inspired hotspot where Australian chef Paul Bentley puts his spin on steakhouse classics. Before diving into a rib-eye or suckling pig with mesquite honey, try the grilled oysters with butter and herbs and the tomato salad with peach and burrata.

For atmosphere galore at dinnertime, head to La Unica and grab a table in the upstairs al fresco dining room, where jaw-dropping views of La Parroquia across Le Jardín’s treetops accompany Serrano ham croquettes, zesty ceviche, and top-notch margaritas.

What to drink

Speaking of which, tequila connoisseurs should beeline to La Casa Dragones, a temple to Casa Dragones, Mexico’s most coveted, small-batch tequila, launched in 2008 by Bertha González Nieves—the first woman to become a master tequila distiller—and MTV cofounder Bob Pittman. The now-private home was once the 17th century stables of the Dragones—formerly the Queen of Spain’s most elite cavalry, led by Ignacio Allende—who later became champions of Mexico’s independence movement.

Afterward, duck into the obsidian-clad tasting room at Doce 18 Concept House to sip its signature joven—a blend of 100% blue agave silver and extra-aged tequila—from a long-stemmed crystal glass. Then bar-hop between San Miguel’s all-star lineup of rooftop bars, including Quince, where award-winning cocktails complement nibbles from the city’s only rooftop sushi bar, and the Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar, the best place in town to take in a spectacular San Miguel sunset.

葡萄园和塔楼(库纳德第拉酒庄)。图片来源:Paco Lara
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渴望进行实地考察的酿酒业者该去看看墨西哥最受赞誉的精品酿酒厂之一库纳德第拉酒庄(意思是地球的摇?#28023;?#20174;邻近的多洛雷斯·伊达尔戈市出发不到一个小时的车程,这个城市是另一位国家先驱米格尔·伊达尔戈最早喊出 “多洛雷斯呼声”的地方,这一呼就成了墨西哥独立战争的号角。您可以在风景如画的80英亩葡萄园中乘坐拖拉机游览,并品尝其12个年份的酒-包括获奖的Pago de Vega(Cabernet Sauvignon、Cabernet Franc、Merlot和Syrah)和Cuna de Tierra Nebbiolo (Nebbiolo和Malbec)——并享用美味的午餐,例如腌?#33889;?#20154;掌玉米饼伴大豆酱、酱制排骨和焦糖蔬菜。

库纳德第拉独特的?#34924;?#39118;土(沙土、炎?#21462;?#26228;天多和凉爽的夜晚)为其葡萄酒增添了高品质的酸度。瓜纳华托州的第一家酿酒厂已经运营了15年,现在每年生产12万瓶酒。该地区精心的现代设计与周围的乡村形成鲜明对比,而墨西哥漫长的争取主权的?#27675;?#23601;发端于此,这再次?#25925;?#20102;该地区迷人的历史和现代的结合。

?#26723;?#19968;住

开业不到一年,水上城市度假村已经跻身为该市繁华酒店中的最顶级的一?#20445;?#20869;行人都?#19981;?#20303;这儿,因为这里有豪华的住宿条件、一流的餐饮以及独一无二的未来庄园气氛,将现代美学与城市的殖民历史巧妙融合。

Oenophiles hankering for a field trip will want to visit Cuna de Tierra (Cradle of Earth), one of Mexico’s most acclaimed boutique wineries, less than an hour’s drive away in the neighboring city of Dolores Hidalgo, where Miguel Hidalgo—the country’s other original patriot—first uttered the “Grito de Dolores,” the battle cry of the Mexican War of Independence. You can take a guided tour on a tractor-drawn cart through the scenic 80 acres of vineyards and sample its 12 vintages—including the award-winning Pago de Vega (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah) and Cuna de Tierra Nebbiolo (Nebbiolo and Malbec)—over a delectable pairing lunch of dishes like corn tetelas with cured cactus and bean sauce and braised short rib with mole and caramelized vegetables.

Cuna de Tierra’s distinct desert terroir (sandy soil, hot, sunny days, and cool nights) lends a high-quality acidity to its wines. Guanajuato’s first winery, it’s been operating for 15 years and now produces 120,000 bottles annually. The property’s artfully modern design contrasts starkly with the surrounding countryside where Mexico’s long battle for sovereignty first erupted—another reminder of the area’s fascinating mix of history and progress.

Where to stay

Since opening less than a year ago, Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende, the latest top-tier addition to the city’s bustling hotel scene, has become a magnet for those in-the-know, thanks to its inspired mélange of luxurious accommodations, first-rate dining, and singular hacienda-of-the-future vibe that melds a modern aesthetic with subtle nods to the city’s colonial past.

香?#33795;罰?#36825;是一个铜像,由墨西哥当地艺术家哈维·马林创作。图片来源:Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende
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墨西哥艺术家哈维·马林创作的22英尺长青铜雕塑“香?#33795;貳?#22312;入口处迎接着游客,这是对圣米格尔高耸入云的艺术遗产的?#35848;琛?#24230;假村内部,共有153间客房,各具特色,例如配有最新碟片的唱机、耀眼的瓷砖工艺以及独立的玻璃封闭式壁橱。

去看看度假村广阔的开放空间吧——一层由拱门环成一圈并由Matatena雕塑锚定的内?#23458;ピ海?#36825;个金属和木制的雕塑由墨西哥艺术家罗德里格·加拉加萨创作,——使该度假胜地拥?#26032;?#22825;画廊的宁静氛围,最多可以容纳900人在?#21496;?#20250;。

Mexican artist Javier Marín’s 22-foot bronze sculpture, Cabeza Vainilla (Vanilla Head), stops visitors in their tracks at the entrance, an ode to San Miguel’s towering artistic legacy. Inside, 153 guest rooms feature distinctive touches like turntables complete with LPs, splashy tile work, and freestanding, glass-enclosed closets.

Sprawling open spaces—like the ground-floor interior courtyard ringed by archways and anchored by Matatena, a massive metal-and-wood sculpture by Mexican artist Rodrigo Garagarza—lend the resort the tranquil ambience of an open-air gallery and serve as atmospheric venues for gatherings of up to 900.

圣米格尔水上城市度假村的一间主?#28020;?#22270;片来源:Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende
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到了晚上,客人们聚集在迷人的阿尔伯庭院的火炉旁,该露台以雄伟的北美灰树命名,这种树布满了整个空间,树枝在天黑后闪耀着白光。酒店前台的对面有一家面包店和酒店最好的两?#20063;?#39302;之一的Zibu Allende餐馆,在这个设计考究的餐馆里可以吃到富有想象力的墨西哥-泰国融合美食,它还提供世界一流的早餐,以复杂的墨西哥旋球方式呈现。

楼上,在昏暗的龙宫龙舌兰雪茄吧中,切斯特菲尔德真皮沙发和喜怒无常的油漆调色板,营造出舒适而闷热的氛围,非常适合深夜买醉。

At night, guests congregate by the fire pit in the inviting Patio de Arból, named for the majestic North American ash tree that presides over the space, its boughs aglow with white lights after dark. Across from the reception desk that doubles as a panaderia (bakery), Zibu Allende, one of the hotel’s two fine-dining restaurants, serves imaginative Mexican-Thai fusion cuisine in a sumptuously designed setting, as well as a world-class breakfast menu with a sophisticated Mexican spin.

Upstairs, in the low-lit Casa Dragones Cigar Bar, leather Chesterfield sofas and a moody paint palette create a cozy yet sultry vibe perfect for late-night tippling.

圣米格尔水上城市度假村的大堂。图片来源:Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende
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走了一整天的鹅卵石路,酒店的温泉浴场不可不去,里面设有10个按摩室、蒸汽浴室和休闲游泳池。该酒店最近还独家推出了热气球游览,可方便地?#28216;?#39030;露台起飞,40?#31181;?#28216;览鸟瞰这座殖民城市。(财富中文网)

译者:宣峰

After a long day pounding the cobblestones, the resort’s subtly dazzling spa is a must-visit, featuring ten massage rooms, a steam room, and a relaxation pool. The hotel also recently launched an exclusive hot-air balloon excursion that conveniently takes off from the rooftop terrace for a 40-minute, bird’s-eye perspective on the colonial city.

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